This material can print on any printer without any special requirements.

Tips:

• Print slower than standard PLA. Recommended top Max Volumetric Speed of 15mm^3/s.
• When printing at 15mm^3/s - increase printing temperature to 220-230˚C.
• Keep fan speed on at full blast for best surface quality. Reduce if noticing any layer adhesion issues.

This material can print on any printer without any special requirements.

Tips:

• Print slower than standard PLA. Recommended top Max Volumetric Speed of 15mm^3/s.
• When printing at 15mm^3/s - increase printing temperature to 220-230˚C.
• Keep fan speed on at full blast for best surface quality. Reduce if noticing any layer adhesion issues.
• This material can print great on small 0.2mm nozzles.

This material can print on any printer without any special requirements.

Tips:

• Print slower than standard PLA. Recommended top Max Volumetric Speed of 15mm^3/s
• When printing at 15mm^3/s - increase printing temperature to 220-230˚C.
• Keep fan speed on at full blast for best surface quality. Reduce if noticing any layer adhesion issues.

This material can print faster than standard PLA while still maintaining similar print settings.

Tips:

• Print speeds can be set as high as 24mm^3/s max volumetric speed without any reduction in print quality or consistent finish.
• Print at 220-230˚C when printing at those fast speeds.
• Keep fan speed on at full blast for best surface quality. Reduce if noticing any layer adhesion issues.

This material can print faster than standard PLA while still maintaining similar print settings.

Tips:

• Print speeds can be set as high as 22mm^3/s max volumetric speed without any reduction in print quality or consistent finish.
• Print at 220-230˚C when printing at those fast speeds.
• Keep fan speed on at full blast for best surface quality. Reduce if noticing any layer adhesion issues.

This material can be tricky and is definitely likely to string more than other material types.

Tips:

• 190˚C printing temperature.
• 50mm/s printing speed.
• Maximum travel speed.
• 0.5mm coasting and 1mm wiping (depending on the model).
• Use coasting and wiping.
• Recommended to dry this filament before printing when possible. If you hear "cracking" or "popping" noises when extruding - the filament needs to be dried.

You can find further help over on our Discord

This material can be tricky and is definitely likely to string more than other material types.

Tips:

• 190˚C printing temperature.
• 50mm/s printing speed.
• Maximum travel speed.
• 0.5mm coasting and 1mm wiping (depending on the model).
• Use coasting and wiping
• Recommended to dry this filament before printing when possible. If you hear "cracking" or "popping" noises when extruding - the filament needs to be dried.

You can find further help over on our Discord

This material can print on any printer but does require a hardened nozzle due to being abrasive.

Tips:

• Use a hardened steel nozzle.
• Print slower than standard PLA. Recommended top Max Volumetric Speed of 15mm^3/s.
• When printing at 15mm^3/s - increase printing temperature to 220-230˚C.
• Keep fan speed on at full blast for best surface quality. Reduce if noticing any layer adhesion issues.
• Do not use in an AMS due to the abrasiveness.

This material can be printed on any printer without any upgrades or special requirements.

Tips

• Print with either your cooling fan off, or at a very low speed. Our PETG is likely to lose layer adhesion if you have too rapid of cooling.
• Print with a max volumetric speed of 15mmm^3/s or lower.
• If still having layer adhesion issues and your cooling fan is off, increase printing temperature to 240˚C.
• If you hear "popping" or "cracking" noises when extruding - dry the filament.
• PETG is known for being stringy, so it is going to be difficult to get rid of all of the stringiness/hair on the print.

This material can be printed on any printer without any upgrades or special requirements.

Tips

• Print with either your cooling fan off, or at a very low speed. Our PETG is likely to lose layer adhesion if you have too rapid of cooling.
• Print with a max volumetric speed of 15mmm^3/s or lower.
• If still having layer adhesion issues and your cooling fan is off, increase printing temperature to 240˚C.
• If you hear "popping" or "cracking" noises when extruding - dry the filament.
• PETG is known for being stringy, so it is going to be difficult to get rid of all of the stringiness/hair on the print.

This material can print on any printer that is enclosed. We do recommend an all-metal hotend that can reach above 250˚C, but it is not required.

Tips:

• The hotter and slower you print, the better your layer adhesion will be.
• Heat up your build plate to 90-100˚C for 10 minutes before starting your print so that the chamber has time to heat up.
• If you are printing slow and hot, you will get better layer adhesion but may experience uglier overhangs. You will battle between great layer adhesion and great overhang quality.
• Magigoo Original works as a great product for bed adhesion if you are having issues.
• Keep your cooling fan off if you are having layer adhesion or build plate adhesion issues.
• Can be smoothed or welded via acetone.

This material can print on any printer that is enclosed. We do recommend an all-metal hotend that can reach above 250˚C, but it is not required.

Tips:

• The hotter and slower you print, the better your layer adhesion will be.
• Heat up your build plate to 90-100˚C for 10 minutes before starting your print so that the chamber has time to heat up.
• If you are printing slow and hot, you will get better layer adhesion but may experience uglier overhangs. You will battle between great layer adhesion and great overhang quality.
• Magigoo Original works as a great product for bed adhesion if you are having issues.
• Keep your cooling fan off if you are having layer adhesion or build plate adhesion issues.
• Can be smoothed or welded via acetone.

This material can be printed on most printers, but it is highly recommended you use a direct extruder setup and not Bowden.

Tips:

• The further the gap between your extruder and hotend, the more difficult this material will be to print.
• Print slow, and even slower if your extruder has a distance between itself and the hotend. 30mm/s - 60mm/s.
• Keep your cooling fan on for good surface quality.
• This material has amazing layer adhesion which will make using parent support material very difficult. It is suggested you design your part to not need support material as much as possible.
• TPU is known for being stringy, so it is going to be difficult to get rid of all of the stringiness/hair on the print.
• 90 refers to it's shore hardness of 90A.

This material can be printed on most printers, but can print faster on a direct extruder than a Bowden setup.

Tips:

• The further the gap between your extruder and hotend, the slower you will have to print.
• Print slow, and even slower if your extruder has a distance between itself and the hotend. 30mm/s - 60mm/s.
• Keep your cooling fan on for good surface quality.
• This material has amazing layer adhesion which will make using parent support material very difficult. It is suggested you design your part to not need support material as much as possible.
• TPU is known for being stringy, so it is going to be difficult to get rid of all of the stringiness/hair on the print.
• 95 refers to it's shore hardness of 95A.

This material can be printed on most printers and is designed for high flow. That said, it can print faster on a direct extruder than a Bowden setup.

Tips:

• The further the gap between your extruder and hotend, the slower you will have to print.
• Print slower if your extruder has a distance between itself and the hotend. 40mm/s - 100mm/s.
• Keep your cooling fan on for good surface quality.
• This material has amazing layer adhesion which will make using parent support material very difficult. It is suggested you design your part to not need support material as much as possible.
• TPU is known for being stringy, so it is going to be difficult to get rid of all of the stringiness/hair on the print.
• TPU95-HF is a slightly harder than 95A and has a shore hardness rating closer to around 98A.

This material requires an enclosed printer and an all metal hotend to properly print.

Tips:

• Print slow and hot to help with layer adhesion and warping.
• Keep cooling fans off.
• Set build plate temperature to 105˚C for 10-15 minutes before starting the print to allow the chamber to heat up.
• A dry box or filament dryer is recommended when printing with PC due to it being slightly more hygroscopic.
• Using a larger diameter nozzle will also help with layer adhesion.
• Magigoo PC is a great product to help with polycarbonate build plate adhesion.
• Annealing is required after printing polycarbonate, especially if you do not have an heated chamber of 90˚C+. Anneal with your oven at 90˚C for 2 hours.
• You need to put the print into the oven right when the print finishes and not allow it to cool.

This material requires an enclosed printer and an all metal hotend to properly print.

Tips:

• Print slow and hot to help with layer adhesion and warping.
• Keep cooling fans off.
• Set build plate temperature to 105˚C for 10-15 minutes before starting the print to allow the chamber to heat up.
• A dry box or filament dryer is recommended when printing with PC due to it being slightly more hygroscopic.
• Using a larger diameter nozzle will also help with layer adhesion.
• Magigoo PC is a great product to help with polycarbonate build plate adhesion.
• Annealing is required after printing polycarbonate, especially if you do not have an heated chamber of 90˚C+. Anneal with your oven at 90˚C for 2 hours.
• You need to put the print into the oven right when the print finishes and not allow it to cool.

This material should only be printed when you have a heated chamber printer that can reach 90˚C - 100˚C ambient air temperatures.

This means this is an industrial material that should not be printed on standard consumer machines.

Tips:

• Print slow and hot to help with layer adhesion and warping.
• Keep cooling fans off
• Set the chamber temp to 90˚C - 100˚C and allow the chamber to heat all the way up before starting your print.
• A dry box or filament dryer is recommended when printing with PC due to it being slightly more hygroscopic.
• Using a larger diameter nozzle will also help with layer adhesion.
• Magigoo PC is a great product to help with polycarbonate build plate adhesion.
• Annealing is required after printing polycarbonate.
• You need to keep your chamber temp at 90˚C - 100˚C for 2 hours after the print finishes. Then allow the print to slowly cool to room temperature.

This material should only be printed when you have a heated chamber printer that can reach 90˚C - 105˚C ambient air temperatures.

This means this is an industrial material that should not be printed on standard consumer machines.

Tips:

• Print slow and hot to help with layer adhesion and warping.
• Keep cooling fans off.
• Set the chamber temp to 90˚C - 105˚C and allow the chamber to heat all the way up before starting your print.
• A dry box or filament dryer is recommended when printing with PC due to it being slightly more hygroscopic.
• Using a larger diameter nozzle will also help with layer adhesion.
• Magigoo PC is a great product to help with polycarbonate build plate adhesion.
• Annealing is required after printing polycarbonate.
• You need to keep your chamber temp at 90˚C - 105˚C for 2 hours after the print finishes. Then allow the print to slowly cool to room temperature.

This material should only be printed when you have a heated chamber printer that can reach 100˚C - 115˚C ambient air temperatures.

This means this is an industrial material that should not be printed on standard consumer machines.

Tips:

• Print slow and hot to help with layer adhesion and warping.
• Keep cooling fans off.
• Set the chamber temp to 100˚C - 115˚C and allow the chamber to heat all the way up before starting your print.
• A dry box or filament dryer is recommended when printing with PC due to it being slightly more hygroscopic.
• Using a larger diameter nozzle will also help with layer adhesion.
• Magigoo PC is a great product to help with polycarbonate build plate adhesion.
• Annealing is required after printing polycarbonate.
• You need to keep your chamber temp at 100˚C - 115˚C for 2 hours after the print finishes. Then allow the print to slowly cool to room temperature.

This material only has a requirement that you print with an all metal hotend that can reach 250˚C or higher.

Tips:

• Do not set your build plate above 50˚C and keep any chamber doors open. If you let the build plate or ambient air get above 50˚C, you run the risk of warping or ugly prints.
• Use a glue stick or Magigoo PA if experiencing any issues with bed adhesion.
• CoPA can be difficult to print overhangs with, so it is recommended that you try and design your part to have the least amount of overhangs as possible.
• CoPA can be pretty temperature sensitive, so it may require some tweaking to get the correct printing temperature for good surface quality.
• CoPA is very hygroscopic and therefore should only be printed while kept in a heated filament dryer the entire time you print.
• If you hear "popping" or "cracking" noises, then the filament needs to be dried.
• This needs to be annealed after printing at 80˚C for 6 hours.
• After annealing - the part will be dried out and therefore need to be moisture conditioned.
• Moisture conditioning will happen even if you do nothing as the material absorbs moisture from the air. To speed up moisture conditioning, keep in a humid environment for 48 hours.

This mateiral is a PVB material and does not need any special printer requirements to print.

Tips:

• Print slower than standard PLA. Recommended top Max Volumetric Speed of 15mm^3/s.
• Increase printing temperature to 220˚C if printing at this fast 15mm^3/s.
• Keep fan speed on at full blast for best surface quality. Reduce if noticing any layer adhesion issues.
• The burnout temperature for our PolyCast is 1,100 - 1,200˚C to entirely burnout.
• You can find more information on this on page 7 of our application notes for this material: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0548/7299/7945/files/PolyCast_Application_Note_V1.pdf?v=1640965091
• Video to help if you are unable to reach 1,100˚C https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeNMc_THrow

This material is a PVB material and does not need any special printer requirements to print.

Tips:

• Print slower than standard PLA. Recommended top Max Volumetric Speed of 15mm^3/s.
• Increase printing temperature to 220˚C if printing at this fast 15mm^3/s.
• Keep fan speed on at full blast for best surface quality. Reduce if noticing any layer adhesion issues.
• You can use the Polysher to smooth out the layer lines since PVB is soluble in alcohol.
• You can also use a mister spray bottle and apply light coats to have a similar effect

This mateiral is a breakaway support material (not dissolvable) for PLA though it also can work with PolySmooth™, PolyCast™ and small PolyMax™ PC parts.

Tips:

• Though it is possible to use PolySupport™ for PLA with a single nozzle, it is not recommended due to increase chances of clogging when swapping materials. This is particularly true if using PolySupport™ for PLA with a material that has a different print temperature, such as PolyMax™ PC. IDEX or ToolChanger is recommended.
• It is suggested to print slower than PLA standards when printing PolySupport™ for PLA. A max volumetric speed of 12mm^3/s, though we would recommend even slower for best chances of not clogging.

This material is a PVA material that is dissolvable in water meaning you can use it for very complex geometries or previously impossible prints. PolyDissolve™ S1 will work for PLA, TPU, PVB and Nylon based filaments from our portfolio. It is specifically engineered to have a perfect interface with these materials while also displaying good solubility.

Tips:

• Though it is possible to use PolyDissolve™ S1 with a single nozzle, it is not recommended due to increase chances of clogging when swapping materials. This is particularly true if using PolyDissolve™ S1 with a material that has a different print temperature, such as one of our nylons. IDEX or ToolChanger is recommended.
• PolyDissolve™ S1 is a very hygroscopic material, meaning it absorbs moisture very easily. This means it is very important to keep dry. You should use a heated filament dryer on the lowest setting for the entirety of your print.
• If you hear any "popping" or "cracking", or you see the filament bubbling up when extruded, you need to dry the material.
• You need to print PolyDissolve™ S1 very slowly - we recommend no higher than 60mm/s or 8mm^3/s max volumetric speed.
• PolyDissolve™ S1 will dissolve quicker if you are using warm water that is moving. The quickest way to dissolve is to use boiling water, though you would need to make sure the parent material can support such high temperatures. One method is to place your part in a tub of warm water, place it on a heated bed slinger build plate, and then run a g-code that will rattle the build plate back and forth. The higher the temperature of the water and the more it flows, the quicker it will dissolve.
• It is also recommended to change the water every few hours so that it will dissolve quicker.

All Panchroma effects and colors, with the exception of Luminous, Glow, and Regular will have no special requirements. You can print them on any printer in any setup.

Tips:

• These materials are standard PLA options and can print with standard PLA settings.
• Silk and other very glossy options should be printed at a slower print speed so that the shine can be maintained. If you print these materials too fast, they will look more "matte".
• Do not print glitter/sparkle effect materials with smaller than a 0.4mm nozzle.
• Leave the cooling fan on at full blast for best surface quality.

These glow in the dark materials have an additive that makes them very abrasive. This means you should not print them unless you have a hardened nozzle.

Tips:

• Due to the abrasiveness, we do not recommend printing these in an AMS with plastic gears and tubes.
• Other than being abrasive, these materials are standard PLA options and can print with standard PLA settings.
• Leave the cooling fan on at full blast for best surface quality.

Panchroma™ Regular is not a PLA and is a new formula created by Polymaker. This means it should not be used when combining with PLA prints, since they will not adhere properly together.

This new formula allows for fast printing with great overhangs.

Print Tips

• You can print this at top speeds of up to 400mm/s, so no need to worry about speed.
• Leave the cooling fan on at full blast for best surface quality.
• If having difficulty removing prints from a textured PEI plate, you can use Magigoo Original.

This material requires a hotend that can reach 310˚C - 350˚C and a hardened nozzle due to abrasiveness.

Tips:

• Print a bit slower if experiencing any layer adhesion issues.
• Keep cooling fan off.
• Keep door open if printing in enclosed printer - enclosure is not needed.
• Anneal the print at 125˚ for 16h for the best layer adhesion and temperature resistance.
• Do not use in an AMS due to the abrasiveness.

The only requirements you need to print this material is an all-metal hotend that can reach 270˚C - 300˚C, and a hardened nozzle due to the abrasiveness.

Tips:

• Print a bit slower if experiencing any layer adhesion issues.
• Keep cooling fan off.
• Keep door open if printing in enclosed printer - enclosure is not needed.
• Anneal the print at 120˚ for 10h for the best layer adhesion and temperature resistance.
• Do not use in an AMS due to the abrasiveness.

This material has a requirement that you print with an all metal hotend that can reach 250˚C or higher as well as the need for a hardened nozzle.

Tips:

• Do not set your build plate above 50˚C and keep any chamber doors open. If you let the build plate or ambient air get above 50˚C, you run the risk of warping or ugly prints.
• Use a glue stick or Magigoo PA if experiencing any issues with bed adhesion.
• PA-CF is very hygroscopic and therefore should only be printed while kept in a heated filament dryer the entire time you print.
• If you hear "popping" or "cracking" noises, then the filament needs to be dried.
• This needs to be annealed after printing at 100˚C for 16 hours.
• After annealing - the part will be dried out and therefore need to be moisture conditioned.
• Moisture conditioning will happen even if you do nothing as the material absorbs moisture from the air. To speed up moisture conditioning, keep in a humid environment for 48 hours.
• Should not be used in an AMS due to the abrasiveness.

This material has a requirement that you print with an all metal hotend that can reach 280˚C or higher as well as the need for a hardened nozzle.

Tips:

• Do not set your build plate above 50˚C and keep any chamber doors open. If you let the build plate or ambient air get above 50˚C, you run the risk of warping or ugly prints.
• Use a glue stick or Magigoo PA if experiencing any issues with bed adhesion.
• PA-CF is very hygroscopic and therefore should only be printed while kept in a heated filament dryer the entire time you print.
• If you hear "popping" or "cracking" noises, then the filament needs to be dried.
• This needs to be annealed after printing at 100˚C for 16 hours.
• After annealing - the part will be dried out and therefore need to be moisture conditioned.
• Moisture conditioning will happen even if you do nothing as the material absorbs moisture from the air. To speed up moisture conditioning, keep in a humid environment for 48 hours.
• Should not be used in an AMS due to the abrasiveness.

This material has a requirement that you print with an all metal hotend that can reach 280˚C or higher as well as the need for a hardened nozzle.

Tips:

• Do not set your build plate above 50˚C and keep any chamber doors open. If you let the build plate or ambient air get above 50˚C, you run the risk of warping or ugly prints.
• Use a glue stick or Magigoo PA if experiencing any issues with bed adhesion.
• PA-CF is very hygroscopic and therefore should only be printed while kept in a heated filament dryer the entire time you print.
• If you hear "popping" or "cracking" noises, then the filament needs to be dried.
• This needs to be annealed after printing at 100˚C for 16 hours.
• After annealing - the part will be dried out and therefore need to be moisture conditioned.
• Moisture conditioning will happen even if you do nothing as the material absorbs moisture from the air. To speed up moisture conditioning, keep in a humid environment for 48 hours.
• Should not be used in an AMS due to the abrasiveness.

This material has a requirement that you print with an all metal hotend that can reach 280˚C or higher as well as the need for a hardened nozzle.

Tips:

• Do not set your build plate above 50˚C and keep any chamber doors open. If you let the build plate or ambient air get above 50˚C, you run the risk of warping or ugly prints.
• Use a glue stick or Magigoo PA if experiencing any issues with bed adhesion.
• PA-CF is very hygroscopic and therefore should only be printed while kept in a heated filament dryer the entire time you print.
• If you hear "popping" or "cracking" noises, then the filament needs to be dried.
• This needs to be annealed after printing at 100˚C for 16 hours.
• After annealing - the part will be dried out and therefore need to be moisture conditioned.
• Moisture conditioning will happen even if you do nothing as the material absorbs moisture from the air. To speed up moisture conditioning, keep in a humid environment for 48 hours.
• Should not be used in an AMS due to the abrasiveness.

This material has a requirement of a hardened nozzle due to the abrasiveness. An all metal hotend is recommended, though not needed.

Tips:

• Print a bit slower if experiencing any layer adhesion issues.
• Run the cooling fan at a max of 50% and reduce if experiencing any layer adhesion issues.
• Keep door open if printing in enclosed printer - enclosure is not needed.
• Do not use in an AMS due to the abrasiveness.

This material only has the requirement that your printer needs an all metal hotend that can reach 250˚C or higher.

Tips:

• Should print with similar settings as standard PETG.
• Keep cooling fan off for best layer adhesion.
• Print slower if experiencing any layer adhesion issues.